For many travelers, the real adventure in Iceland begins when you leave the main Ring Road and head into the highlands. These remote mountain areas are reached by a unique network of routes known as F-roads (fjallvegur in Icelandic). Driving on them is unlike anything else in the country. The landscapes are raw and untouched, but the roads are rough, unpredictable, and demand preparation. If you’re thinking of exploring Iceland’s highlands, here’s what you need to know before setting off.
What Exactly Are F-Roads?
F-roads are unpaved mountain tracks that cross Iceland’s interior highlands. Unlike paved roads near the coast, these routes are rough, with gravel, volcanic rock, mud, and sometimes rivers running across them. They are not designed for standard cars; only 4x4 vehicles with high ground clearance are legally permitted. Attempting them with a regular car is both unsafe and illegal, and it will void your rental insurance immediately.
The remoteness is part of the charm. Once you turn onto an F-road, you leave behind fuel stations, cafés, and shops. Out here, you are on your own with Iceland’s nature, so preparation is key.
When Do F-Roads Open?
The F-roads are only open for a short window each year. Depending on snow and weather conditions, they usually open between late June and early July and close again around September. Outside of this period, they are impassable due to snow, flooding, or poor conditions. Even during summer, conditions can change quickly. Rainstorms can wash away tracks, and rivers can rise suddenly from glacial melt.
Before you go, always check road.is for up-to-date information. This site is run by the Icelandic Road Administration and provides daily updates on road openings, closures, and warnings.
Driving Challenges on F-Roads
One of the biggest challenges when driving in the highlands is river crossings. Many F-roads cut across glacial rivers, and the depth and strength of the water can vary daily. Crossing requires confidence and care. The safest approach is to stop and inspect the river before driving in. If it looks too deep or too fast, don’t risk it. When you do cross, use a low gear, keep steady momentum, and never stop halfway.
Even without rivers, F-roads are demanding. Loose gravel and volcanic rocks can damage tires, while steep hills test the brakes and engine. It’s important to drive slowly, stay alert, and always keep two hands on the wheel. Many travelers underestimate how long these roads can take. What looks like a short distance on the map may take hours in reality.
Essential Tips Before You Go
Because the highlands are so remote, you need to come prepared. Always fill up your tank before leaving the main road – fuel stations are rare once you’re inside. Carry enough food and water for the day, as well as warm clothes, even in summer. A map, a spare tire, and basic tools can also save you if you run into trouble.
Another tip: never drive alone without telling someone your plans. The SafeTravel website allows you to register your trip and get safety alerts. Mobile signal can be unreliable in the highlands, so don’t assume you’ll always be able to call for help.
Respecting Nature and the Rules
Driving on F-roads is allowed, but off-road driving is strictly forbidden in Iceland. The environment is fragile, and tire marks can scar the landscape for decades. Stick to marked tracks at all times. It’s also important to respect speed limits, which are lower on gravel roads: generally 80 km/h, though in reality you’ll often need to drive much slower.
The Reward of the Highlands
Yes, F-roads require caution, planning, and patience. But the reward is unlike anything else. Imagine driving past black sand deserts, steaming geothermal valleys, colorful rhyolite mountains, or glaciers glistening under the midnight sun. You can camp near hidden hot springs, hike trails that feel like another planet, and see landscapes that most visitors never reach.
For many travelers, conquering an F-road is one of the highlights of their trip to Iceland. It’s the kind of journey where the drive itself is as memorable as the destination.
Final Thoughts
Driving Iceland’s F-roads is not something to take lightly, but with the right vehicle, careful preparation, and respect for nature, it’s an experience of a lifetime. Plan your route, check the conditions, pack what you need, and embrace the adventure. Out there in the highlands, you’ll discover the wild heart of Iceland – a place where the road is rough, the journey is slow, but the memories will last forever.